The first couple of weeks in Argentina were, in a word, disorienting. I can honestly say that for at least 95% of my first ten days here I was confused, lost (both in translation and on the map), exhausted from trying to navigate my way in this new environment, and hungry (as this is my body's usual reaction when i'm feeling frazzled and in general, really). To top things off, although I've studied Spanish every semester since I've been at Sewanee and have not had much trouble communicating in Spanish-speaking countries before, I found myself fumbling over simple phrases and crumpling my forehead in confusion at almost every Argentine interaction (I'm a very easy person to read, so I have no doubt that my face said it all...) Finally I realized (and was relieved to have my observations confirmed in Spanish class) that the Spanish here, or should I say Castellano as the porteños call it, IS NOT NORMAL. I'm not going to go too much into detail because I have learned that not all people are language nerds like me, but just know this--there is this thing called lunfardo in Argentina and the Argentines love it. The local language is obviously Spanish but it is also a conglomeration of Italian words and intonation, English cognates, and a verb conjugation specific to the area. OH and did I mention that all the cool kids also use this weird version of pig latin for certain words?? It's actually pretty awesome now that I slightly know what's going on but for a while I was dying.
I am living with Louisa, a host mother here in Buenos Aires and she is so wonderful! We live in her apartment in a middle class neighborhood nearby the office of my study abroad program and have breakfast and dinner together everyday. Louisa has a dog named Lola (La Loca) who lives here as well. Lola and I are not mejores amigas as of yet, but we'll see what happens. I'm going to post a video of her on here eventually because she's literally insane. Like y'all. I've never seen a dog act like her. It's freaky. Anyway I had an American host sister for a while as well (hola, Sydney!!) but she moved back home a little over a week ago.
As for what I actually DO here, I have class from about 10-5 every weekday. I'm taking Spanish at the University of Buenos Aires (en la facultad de idiomas), a thematic seminar on human rights and social movements, and a field study seminar. Though classes have been going well, what I have enjoyed the most so far are our field trips-- some things never change. We've gotten to do some pretty phenomenal things so far. Here are some pictures from our trips...
Evita Perón's office in a sindicato (labor union) we visited
Torture chamber in Olimpo, a clandestine detention center in operation for 5 months in Buenos Aires during the military dictatorship that lasted from 1976-83
Photographs of desaparecidos, young people kidnapped by the military dictatorship
One of the many murals outside of Olimpo (you can get a glimpse of the detention center through the window)
Kids playing in a villa we visited in the neighborhood of Barracas in Buenos Aires. We spent a Saturday learning about the villa and celebrating the start of spring with kids at a sort of safe-space/day care center. (Due to political, legal, and social tensions, villas in the city are isolated from the province, are ridden with crime and pollution, do not appear on official maps, and are essentially left unrecognized by the government.)
Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, of the Linea Fundación division. Parents whose children disappeared during the military dictatorship circle around the Plaza de Mayo, in front of the Casa Rosada (the president's office) every Thursday. They have done so every week since the organization was formed in the 1970s and march to demand information about their lost children and grandchildren and to further new human rights and political agendas. The Madres de la Plaza de Mayo are one of the most iconic human rights organizations in the world. I really want to go back on another Thursday and watch--it's pretty incredible!
***
Además de esto, my group took a trip to Patagonia last week. It is with out a doubt one of the most incredible places I have ever been, and after a solid three weeks in the vastly metallic and industrial city of Buenos Aires, it was a much-needed change to be in the midst of lakes and mountains and hills and grass and trees. The air was clean and fresh and the landscapes so crisp and strikingly clear. I think all of the students on our program thoroughly drank in the beauty of the place we were in, and we all came back to the city full of new experiences, stories of adventure, and fresh mountain air. In Patagonia, we stayed for two nights in the rural Mapuche community of Chiuquilihuin. We lived with local families in the community, who graciously invited us into their homes and shared a bit of their lives with us over mate, homemade bread, and too much dulce de leche (yeah right, there’s no such thing). On our first day in Chiquilihuin, I walked with Brianna, a friend from my program, and Alejandra, our hostmom there, for about fifty minutes with heavy backpacks brimming with coats and shoes and necessities for the trip. We finally arrived at the house we would stay in for two nights, panting and almost sweating as the chilly day drew to a close. But what an incredible place. Aside from the literally breathtaking views, during the next couple of days my eyes were truly opened to a whole new culture and way of life that was new and novel and different to me but also very familiar and relatable. I don’t know how to put the experience into words (and I'm clearly and running out of space and time to keep readers’ attention to attempt to do so) but it is something I know I will never forget. Here are some pictures:
View of a volcano in Patagonia that is actually on the Chilean side of the Andes. I forgot the name of it..awkward. But look how pretty! And did I mention this is was taken on the side of the road on our way to Chiuquilihuin?? Increíble.
Brianna, Alejandra, and me on a hike near our home stay in the Mapuche community (we climbed allll the way to the top of the hill behind us with Camila, our 6 year old 'sister,' and four or five family dogs)
View from the stopping point of our hike (I know, right??)
After Chiquilihuin, and three days or so without showering, our group headed down to Bariloche, a seemingly sleepy little ski town that looks a lot like what would happen if a Swiss village, a Colorado mountain town, and the nutcracker ballet were swirled together in a rich mug of chocolate caliente. We very much enjoyed the high life that Bariloche has to offer—insane views, an eclectic mix of visitors from all over the world, quaint restaurants, fun bars, and too much artisanal chocolate. But we also got to know the other side of Bariloche, the one that isn’t wealthy or cozy as the touristy half, though it is just as beautiful in its own way. We were escorted and mentored into this side of Bariloche by an incredibly intelligent and unintentionally inspirational group of lawyers. We learned about indigenous land rights, an environmentally conscious and self-sustaining NGO that helps get adolescents off the street and often into activism, and a grassroots cooperative of workers that earn a living by organizing and recycling the city’s trash through a system developed upon their own initiative. Some pics of Bariloche:
View of a lake in Bariloche
Sunbathing Patagonia-style with Jaime, a friend from my program
Trash sorting/recycling collective
Delicious chocolate factory/café. Yeah, we're fancy.
As if all of this wasn’t enough, this past weekend I was
somehow lucky enough to find myself at the Encuentro Nacional de Mujeres, an
annual Argentine women’s conference that was held in Posadas, Misiones this
year. My friend Allison from the States and I tagged along with a student group
from the University of Buenos Aires on the trip. We slept in a school that was
opened to house some of the estimated 30,000 women that traveled there for the
conference. We slept on the floor of a classroom and didn’t have access to a
shower for the whole trip (I’m sensing a trend here..) but I honestly could not
be happier that I was able to witness and participate somewhat in the
encuentro. I sat in on a workshop on la trata (human trafficking) and heard
first-hand testimonies, listened to arguments about strategies for combating it, and watched as passionate rallying cries emerged amongst the group in agreements made at the end of
the weekend. I walked with thousands of women in a march that culminated the encuentro and called for all sorts of women's rights and attention to social issues that affect the Argentine population as a whole. I also meet some wonderful women I hope to stay friends with and
leaped forward in my grasp of Spanish, to the extent that I came home
to Louisa and understood her completely without once raising an eyebrow. Pictures from the 27th
Encuentro Nacional de Mujeres:
Decorations in a plaza in Posadas. This sign reads,"empezá la revolución. Dejá de odiar tu cuerpo." ("start the revolution. quit hating your body")
Picture from the march at the end of the encuentro
***
Wheeeeew. That was a lot. Sorry I had to put y’all through
that and post all of this in one sitting but thank God I’m at least semi-caught
up now on the blogging front. AND as of now I’m going to try to make this
easier on all of us and actually write more often. Here’s to more adventures
and to more updates in the future. Cheers, y’all. Aves
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